I spend a lot of time mooching around farm shops and grocers and came across salsify recently. Incredibly popular from the 1600’s right up until the mid 1900’s, it fell out of favour with the rise of supermarkets, who do so much to shape our food tastes based on their bottom line, rather that what grows easily and is nutritious. Part of the dandelion family, salsify is terrifically ugly but delicious and satisfying. A long, thin root, mud-covered with brown skin and a creamy white flesh, it is easy to grow, but requires care when harvesting, its thin and delicate shape meaning it can break easily when being dug up.
The flavour is a little like a mix of white turnip and Jerusalem artichoke. Rich with a little bite. I love this stuff and devour it whenever I can get my hands on it. It roasts really well and adds a little extra depth to a medley of winter veg oven baked with garlic and rosemary to go along with your roast dinner.
I love it in a gratin too. When peeling, have a bowl of acidulated water close at hand as it discolours on contact with air, so be ready to plunge immediately into the water and lemon juice mix as soon as you’ve removed the skin.
Once I’ve peeled it, I cut the stalks into two or three equal pieces and boil in well-salted water for about 12 minutes. For the sauce, heat some double cream with two smoked garlic cloves bashed with a knife to release their flavour. Warm for a few minutes, turn off the heat and allow the garlic to infuse for 20 minutes. Remove the cloves and turn the heat back on. Add a good grinding of black pepper and a couple of handfuls of parmesan or pecorino cheese. You can add in some crisp smoked pancetta if you like, but its equally delicious without. Allow the cheese to melt and pour it over the drained salsify into a small oven dish. Sprinkle the top with crushed ready salted crisps, some chopped parsley and another handful of the grated cheese you used. Pop into the oven for 10 minutes at 190o/Gas 7. The resulting gratin is a fabulous side dish or hearty lunch when served with some crusty bread.
